futaba single stick manual

Adjustment of the throttle linkage is therefore very convenient. Snap roll directions can be set using Control Switches These are the snap roll time setting 34 and 35. Your equipment will then be repaired and returned to you upon receipt of payment or C.O.D, (cash). It was in his shop with the other engines and RC equipment I am listing on eBay. It looks to be in good condition, but I am selling it as is. I just don't know the history of this transmitter. It probable has very little use if any. SHIPPING: Shipping:Please calculate the shipping cost before bidding. The Futaba FP-T8SSA-P transmitter will be sent from zip 98275 and will weigh 4 lbs. The transmitter is packaged and ready to ship as soon as the payment process is complete. If purchased from Canada, please include phone number for shipping purposes. Payment: PayPal only please. Payment must be received within five days of auction closing. The shipping address must be the same as that on the PayPal account. If you have any question please ask, I am happy to help. If insurance is not purchased I am unable to refund product due to damaged or wrong deliveries made by carrier. Your satisfaction guaranteed Thank you. Please check out my other engines on eBay! Stretch Armstrong. Cool, but you probably wonder about some of the other features the radio has that you haven't even looked into. The Futaba manual for their 6XAPs radio system (available here: ) prominently claims that it is,Not to worry -- I'm here to help.The information provided here is intended to clarify the transmitter functions for combat robot applications -- refer to the manual for details on activating and setting specific functions.On such systems, if you move the stick for input channel 1 on the transmitter only the device plugged into receiver output channel 1 responds. Computerized transmitters (like the Futaba T6XAPs) allow for much more complex relationships between the transmitter inputs and the receiver outputs.

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The names and functions of the transmitter controls can be easily understood by reading this section with the three-fold page at the end of this manual unfolded. It is an extremely noise and dead-point resistant digital proportional RC set with a microprocessor in the transmitter and the receiver. Please read this manual before using your set. Servo superior immunity to noise and interference than travel and neutral position are not affected. Either chan- rupted by strong interferrence. Items designated by a number inside a circle (For example 10 ) are transmitter controls normally accessable and operated in flight. Items designated by a number within a box (For example 10 ) are adjustment functions not operated while in flight. While pushing this tab to the A temperature rise 36 Fail safe set button. Switches the range when used as a Press them at a speed of about once tachometer. LOW -100 to 30,000 rpm. per second. Next, press the MODE SEL key switch at the upper-right corner three times. The display changes to the tachometer mode is selected. Hold the sensor about 20 to 30 cm from the rotating propeller (two blade). This switch sets the alarm time.Mount the servos without regard to their direction. Select and link servo horns somewhat larger than those specified by the model manufacturer. Other aircraft may require slightly allows independent adjustment of servo maximum different RIGHT or LEFT aileron or rudder throw in each direction (without affecting the deflection to give equal response in each direction neutral position). FS and HOLD functions.When the ATV trimmer is channels.Dual rate tivity) during flight by using the appropriate rate adjustments always effect both directions of servo switch. This allows a smaller rudder throw for precise inputs during rolling maneuvers (at HIGH throt- tle) and increased throw (at LOW throttle) during stall turns, taxing, etc. HIGH throttle position HIGH SLOW remains unchanged.

Full transmitter stick input can be set to produce anywhere between 0% and 120% of normal response at the receiver. Response may be set independently for each side of the center 'neutral' position. This is also useful to limit the travel of mechanical servos used for switch activation or internal combustion engine throttle control.Why do this? When the adrenaline starts pumping, there is a tendency for drivers to throw full steering input when only a modest amount is needed. This can send a two-wheeled 'bot into a wild and ineffectual spin. By selecting a reduced maximum response rate for the steering stick, your 'bot will remain composed in battle. If you need a full-rate attack spin or victory dance, a flip of the dual-rate switch will give you full response instantly. Cool!This is rarely a problem in combat robots because channel 2 is usually assigned to throttle which is not usually assigned dual rates.Go to the DRSW function in the PARA menu (see below) and set dual rate mode 2. This moves activation of all dual rates to transmitter switch 'C', and as a bonus allows you to set dual rates for transmitter input channel 4.This allows fine control under normal operation and still gives a high spin rate at a flick of the dual rate switch. See ELVN mixing for details. This makes the 'bot much more controllable.Neutral position may be moved to the top via the TREV function in the mode-set menu (see 'About Modes' above), but cannot be set to center neutral.If you spin in a circle, reverse one motor output -- if you back-up, reverse both of them.We will be mixing the output from the throttle stick to control two motor controllers plugged into two receiver outputs. STRM lets us trim those two receiver outputs so that both motors power up together at slow speed rather than one motor turning on first resulting in a very slow turn instead of a slow forward crawl.

Moving the stick for transmitter input 1 on such a system may result in multiple receiver outputs responding, at differing rates and in differing directions!The simple answer is ease of control. A single stick on the transmitter may be used to control power to both sides of the robot for forward and backward motion. A second transmitter stick can then 'mix' its input with that from the first stick to speed up one side of the 'bot and slow or reverse the other to turn or spin the 'bot around. This differential control is much more precise and natural than the alternative 'tank steer' method.Mixing is of much greater interest to combat robots than is coupling. The Futaba T6XAPs transmitter in airplane configuration comes with.If you uncover anything in the helicopter mode that looks promising, let me know!Set STCK to 1 or 2 for the corresponding transmitter mode.Helicopter systems (like the T6XHs) come with a friction-damped throttle. Both transmitters have all the same mixing and programming options and can be considered identical except for the throttle.You can access the stick mechanisms by removing the four small screws on the back of the transmitter. You may then swap the ratchet mechanism and the spring loading bits from one stick to the other. This is not overly difficult -- I converted two transmitters while having breakfast in the caterer's double-decker bus at Robot Wars using a bent paper clip and a Phillips screwdriver.If yours doesn't, or if you just want to make sure you have the part, order the bracket.The T4VF requires no trim bracket.You might want to pool your order with some friends and split the shipping. The parts don't come with instructions, but you can use the other stick as a template to see where the pieces go.Adjusting a subtrim will effect only the device plugged into that output channel on the receiver (Receiver Level).Our pneumatic flipping weapon is activated by output channel 5 (switch E).

Other parameters are largely one-time settings and are adequately covered by the manual.Note that input channel 3 trim is not saved (aircraft guys use this trim to set idle speed and kill the engine).This function takes too much time to use in battle, so don't even think about a separate model for inverted operation. Set inverted functions up with the custom mixes and switch them in and out with a single switch.You'll be glad you did. Adjust so one and only one mixer is active. If you are using channels 1 and 2, unplug the receiver connectors and replug the connector that was in channel 1 into channel 2 and vice versa. No low speed control. Remember to do this for both forward and reverse. Some transmitter manufacturers refer to 'Adjustable Throttle Volume' as 'Travel Adjust'. You may also try setting a moderate negative value for EXP on channel 1 to reduce sensitivity near neutral but retain the high spin rate at full stick input. Try about 50% normal, 100% activated. Each side of the 'bot is now responding in the opposite direction, but since the drives are now on opposite sides the two negatives cancel out.Forward moves you backward and vice-versa.A couple of things that actually do work require serious limitations on your other programming options. I've temporarily given up on the use of these mixes for inverted operation and use the following trick for my antweight that uses elevon mixing:They are receiver level functions.The method listed for accomplishing this does not work. As a 4000 owner, I was keen to see how Futaba's new offering would stack up as a possible replacement. These included a smart looking transmitter, R5114 receiver, mains charger and user manual. Also included were a couple of Allen keys, and a bright orange neck strap. However, I was surprised to see that a receiver battery was also omitted, even though it is mentioned in the packing list in the user manual. The TM-14 2.4 GHz module should be available as an extra by the time you read this.

Cursor over to the receiver channel the other motor is plugged into and slowly increase the STRM setting 'til both motors turn. Check the reverse start points too. If you cannot get both motors to respond together in both forward and reverse, you may have the gain control on one motor controller improperly set.Most tank-steer robots will use either elevon or V-tail mixing. For flaperon mixing:To adjust the response only for the device controlled by receiver output 6, use ATV (receiver level) for that receiver output.If your steering response is too touchy, dial in some negative exponential response on channel 4.Don't get carried away with high turn rates. In combat there is a tendency to overdo transmitter inputs. Keep the turn rate reasonable and remember that a little forward throttle added to a conservative turn rate will spin the 'bot right around.If your steering response is too touchy, dial in some negative exponential response on channel 1.This gives steering control on the right stick and throttle on the left stick in transmitter mode 1. I also swapped the throttle ratchet from the left stick with the center spring load mechanism from the right stick to give a center-loaded throttle.You get to pick a 'master' channel for the transmitter input and the 'slave' channel for the receiver output, and then set the amount and direction of the slave channel response for each side of the master channel's neutral setting. Each of these by itself is technically a coupling, but they may be combined to create a true mix if desired. Futaba calls them mixes, so I'll call them that as well to avoid confusion.If your custom mixes aren't working, check the position of this switch!There are two options for each channel:Check your competition rules for what other devices should do -- I have my pneumatic system HOLD on loss of signal, rather than violently and unexpectedly return to a rest position.

The Linkage menus are where you do all the basic setting up, including creating new models, frequency selection, control assignments, and servo adjustments. Finally the Model menus are where you set up the flight conditions, response curves, and mixers. All in all, the user interface is consistent and reasonably quick, though the consistency breaks slightly when it comes to the individual mixer screens. Unfortunately there isn't space to cover everything, so I'll choose a few key features. For aircraft and gliders, there is a choice of seven wing configurations, from the simplest single-servo setup, to wings with eight servos. Tailless wings are similarly supported. Tail configuration options include V-tail and 'ailevator' (tailerons). For helicopters, there's a choice of 8 swashplate configurations. However, with availability of programmable mixers, this is unlikely to be a constraint in practice. For example, setting up cross trims is just a question of re-assigning the trim levers. Or an unused trim lever can be used to drive an auxiliary channel. Multiple servos can be linked to the same function, thus avoiding the need for Y-leads in the model. Each linked servo can be adjusted for travel and centring. One obvious application is twin elevator and rudder servos for large models. Finally, servos can be assigned to any channel number. This makes it easy to emulate the channel arrangement of another transmitter. It's not an all-or-nothing feature either as the user decides which features should be condition dependent and which should be global. Each condition is assigned a priority, the highest priority taking precedence if multiple conditions are selected. This can greatly reduce the load on the pilot. Logic switches may be defined based on two switches, using AND, OR or EOR operators. Curves may be linear or exponential, or point-based (up to 17 points). Expo can be set separately in each direction.

I was pleased to see that the end-points act as true electronic end stops, essential on models which use aggressive mixing. On the downside, these adjustments are too crude to match up the movement of large paired control surfaces like flaps, where even the slightest differences in linkage geometry can cause subtle mistracking which is difficult to correct. It's a shame that Futaba did not include an AFR (curves) option for each servo, in order to correct for this. All mixers are based on the 'master-slave' concept, whereby one control affects multiple servos. For example, with the ELE-CAMBER mixer, an elevator command will move all the servos assigned to the Camber function. For example, most have an AFR page for setting the curves. A second page allows a further percentage rate to be applied to each servo. A third page specifies how the mixer is activated; e.g. permanently, or via a dedicated switch, or according to flight condition. For example, you can use a volume knob to adjust aileron differential. Or the amount of ELE-FLAP mixing can be automatically reduced as flaps are deployed. All-in-all the programming on the Futaba 12FG is superbly flexible, the only slight niggle being the aforementioned lack of servo-side curves. This is a full-house competition glider, with four servos in the wing, and two in the V-tail. Not only is this a challenging model to program, but with the fast speeds (up to 90 mph) and short 100 meter course, fast servos and minimal latency are essential to avoid having to 'anticipate the buzz' at each end of the run. In short, to replicate the setup that I've honed on the Multiplex 4000 over many seasons of competitive flying. I set up three flight conditions named Landing, Normal and Launch, all controlled by a three-position switch. I then programmed the same switch to deactivate the snapflap and crow mixers according to the flight condition.

It has an integral antenna and is capable of driving any Futaba 2.4 GHz FASST aircraft receiver, from the 6-channel FS606, right up to the 14-channel R6014FS.Also, transmitters are region-coded, so for example a UK supplied transmitter won't work with a US module. This may be an issue if you intend to use this radio abroad. The new protocol supports 14-channels, 2048-step resolution and channel grouping. Futaba claim that it offers a faster response. There is also a separate battery fail safe. At just over 1 kg the box is nicely weighted without being heavy and it also feels comfortable to hold, thanks to the use of rubber mouldings and textured surfaces. The angle is adjustable using an Allen key, and when not in use the aerial can be stored in a recess near the bottom of the case. With the aerial extended, there is a slight tendency for the top to tip down, while the opposite is the case when the aerial is removed for 2.4 GHz operation. Either way, balance is acceptable. Unfortunately, while its large size is commendable, the contrast is rather poor. No amount of tweaking the contrast menu helped, and when working indoors I often found myself wishing for a backlight. The spring tension was a bit weak for my liking, but was easily adjusted using an Allen key. These have a ratchet action and a centre detent, though the centre positions were barely detectable on the review unit. The size of each increment is adjustable and their positions are displayed on the LCD. All switches are three-position types, except for the rear shoulder switches, which are two-position. All switches are of excellent quality with a silky feel and minimal lateral play. As we'll see later, all have freely assignable functions. The electronics are mainly confined to a single motherboard that is dominated by a huge 120-pin custom chip. All in all a remarkably low component count for such a capable system. Of course this also means there's less to go wrong!

Inevitably though, squeezing so much functionality into a small box has led to one or two compromises that may be noticed especially by those coming from a Euro style box. The transmitter feels a little too 'busy', and I'd have liked unused switches to be removable as on the 12Z and 14MZ. Finally, little concession has been made to the needs of the thumb-and-forefinger style flyer, except via the rather limited stick length adjustment. Capacity is 1700 mAh, and based on the published current consumption of 500 mA the maximum safe duration should be around 2.5 to 3 hours. This may be a little borderline for some applications, and no doubt some users will wish to replace the pack with higher capacity cells. An audible alarm sounds when the battery voltage falls to 6.8 volts. If you want to use your own fast charger, it must be connected directly to the battery. Fortunately the battery is easily disconnected from the main board (the lead terminates in a standard J-connector). It's written largely in 'Janglish', many key features are glossed over, and one or two are completely missing. For example, there is no description at all of 'offset' mixers even though they have their own unique screens.If in doubt, I'd recommend downloading the manual from the Futaba web site. On a more positive note, there is a very handy servo monitor menu that shows what the channels are doing in real time. This does at least allow experiment without the need to operate a model. There are just two controls: a large dial labelled 'edit’, which you either twist or click, and a smaller button labelled 'S1'. Click to see a list of available functions, click again to get to a specific menu. Navigation within a menu is consistent too; press the S1 button to get to the 'home' field. Press a bit longer, and you're all the way back to the opening screen. Within a menu, navigation and data entry are performed in an equally consistent manner.

Finally the rotary knobs were programmed to allow snapflap and aileron rates to be adjusted during flight. This might seem a simple task, but on many radios it is difficult or impossible to achieve. After some experimentation, a solution was found via the undocumented 'offset' mix. Nevertheless it did offer a chance to test the 12FG's compatibility with a third party PPM receiver, and no problems were encountered. Inevitably the model had to be re-trimmed, mixer and diff adjusted, in fact it was like starting with a brand new model, let alone a new radio. Nevertheless, retrimming was accomplished with great ease and soon the Sting was having a ball. Nicest of all, the control responses were noticeably quicker than the 4000. Other F3F flyers using 12FG's have reported similar quick response in PCM-G3 mode. It's often the little details which count. Yet the more I got to know it, the more reluctant I was to give it back. It's a superbly flexible piece of kit, both in terms of programming and in the RF options available. It's accurate, responsive and should be well up to the task of controlling the most complex of models. The sticks are excellent too. It has to be said that the user manual doesn't cut the mustard for such a complex piece of kit, although there are various Internet forums available to get help if needed. Also the LCD is crying for a backlight. Finally, the duration on a full charge can only be described as average. And just like the 14MZ it offers a viable route into 2.4 GHz. However, if you're looking for a top end system with all-round flexibility, and you can afford the price tag, the Futaba 12FG deserves a place near the top of your shortlist. Below you will see some examples. If you have a disability, we can help you get back to flying. Contact us with your needs for pricing details.

Multi-rotors (Drones) Drones Talk Multi-rotor Beginner Specific Models of Multi-Rotors and Drones Micro Multi-rotors Mini Multi-rotors Aerial Pictures and Video Showcase Scratchbuilt Multi-rotors Multi-rotor Electronics Multi-rotor Power Systems Multi-Rotor Apps and Related Software Multi-rotor Events FPV (First-Person View) RC Aircraft Flying and RC Vehicle Operation. Forum questions or problems Test Posting Forum From my web searching, there was basically one option due to the 8SSAP being PCM 512 only- Change the radio guts with a newer radio. To me, that seemed expensive so I came up with a new plan. My first thought was to make a PCM decoder with a PIC or similar processor but I quickly gave up on that. So, after a couple days of pondering the problem and seraching for a futaba PCM512 decoder, I realized I already had one- the receiver. I'll post pictures and go over the complete process once I am done with the image editing. I can also answer any questions for others that want to do a similar conversion. Okay, here are the parts: THe blue circuit board is an 8 channel ppm encoder from DIYDrones We're all ears. (or eyes!) hookAlmost gave the hobby up it was such a large undertaking, especially flying pattern. Still carry and fly my JR Century 7 every month or so. Think Da and I still have 15 or more of the ole single stickers.Having taken the r118gp receiver apart before, I noticed the RF and PCM boards are separate and thus the PCM board is easily removed and connected to the new PPM encoder. HIt the switch and you are transmitting on 2.4GHz with a PPM signal. Fewer and fewer folks are on 72 now, but guess after saying that, I never use to pratice fly on Saturday mornings prior to a pattern contest, due to the frequency clash potential. If you need moe work to do, I can send you my favorite JR PCM 9. I loved the top rudder feature of this and the Kraft Signature Series model Single sticks.

Jamie in BamaHe presently has one of the Dymond conversions, but thier Rx's are pricey. I admire folks that can figure that kind of stuff out.Essentially a swap out of the RF board from AM or FM to 2.4 along with four wires is all that's required. Of course, with the original encoders, one doesn't have all the computer functions of modern radios. Because of that, in part, the Microstar 2000 (MS2K) project was born. I hope to build myself a couple of Kraft (one SS, one DS) radios with the MS2K encoder and 2.4 RF some time in the not too distant future. The conversion of a PCM based radio here is very interesting. Keep up the interesting details. DavidAll my buds are NATs bound, but 7 days away from home is a bit much with 9 more contest left in the season for 2012Nice work, please keep posting.Wonder why the experts didn't think of it (or didn't want too). In essence, the PCM is decoded by the DIY encoder and then transmitted via a PPM signal to the DM8 module and then transmitted at 2.4 from there, is that correct Ohnas. And the signal looks very clean too. Brilliant! A Guiness anyone? MarkIf so, it might take a little work to isolate the PCM decoder electronics but would definitely be doable. I'll try to locate a 128 and do some experimenting. Wonder why the experts didn't think of it (or didn't want too). Brilliant! A Guiness anyone? MarkI have heard of some high dollar conversions but they weren't really an 8ss when done and take quite a bit of time to complete. I'm looking for an 8ssh now and hope to get one of those converted as well. I'll have more pictures and details up as well- there is a transistor to invert the ppm to go over. I will get pictures but when you ake the receiver apart, there are two boards like the 118gp and you simply desolder 5 connections to get the boards apart and you are ready to go. I haven't tested pcm1024 with the r128dp but I will. I am almost done with the radio so finished pictures will be up soon.

Here is the question though- my 8ssap pictured above is in perfect condition- is it worth more converted. I have a beater 8ssap and may eBay the perfect one. It will be PPM or pcm512 selectable. The finished module is also slightly smaller. The radio in these pictures is also a different one that I purchased with a hole already drilled in the front so I added the knob and switch there. For my other 8ssap, I am replacing the power switch with one the will lock in the center so up will be pcm and down will be ppm, making the radio look like it has not been modified. If you have any questions, please let me know. I also decided I will do conversions for people so let me know if you are interested. I would need the radio and a 128dp or r118gp receiver. To many analogue switches and stuff to go bad, the way it was. Still have 15-16 single sticks around the house, its all my Dad will fly. Competing, I had to make the two stick switch 5 years ago, and boy, it was tuff, for a while. Now I can fly one as ll as the other, but the S'S will always feel better Jamie In BamaI?m interested in convert my 8SS to Fasst with a TM-8 and have some questions.I?m interested in convert my 8SS to Fasst with a TM-8 and have some questions.I am serious about a conversion for my Futaba 8ch. It wasn't that long ago that he was offering the service. I hope all is well with him. He designed a brilliant fix. If anyone has any information please advise. Thanks DeanI am serious about a conversion for my Futaba 8ch. Thanks Dean It is located ust above the battery box and about as long as the battery box.Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again. Packed with over 250 new screenshots, step-by-step guides and helpful tips, it is invaluable to expert and novice alike. A detailed reference section explains and illustrates the use of each of the transmitter’s features.

For ease of cross-reference it mirrors the order of the Futaba manual. Finding information is easy with direct links from the contents pages and the ability to search. The well-illustrated guides explain “why” rather than just “how”. They provide clear instructions on how to prepare a model for flight. In the process, they should help the novice gain an understanding of the principles behind the programming of these very versatile radios and develop the confidence to explore their more complex features.Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. T. Mulder 5.0 out of 5 stars I know have the 14SG and just bought the 18SZ. The nice thing about kindle version is you can use the search. For all of my RC gear, I have the kindle or PDF's versions on my iPad so that they are always available anywhere I go.My 16SZ is on backorder, but I’m positive my purchase on this Kindle book necessary! BUT. it’s not for easy reading, unless your Tx is on and your trying to do a specific programming task.It’s about time you make a few bucks from us Futaba owners for your help !!!You can search for the answers online but this has most all scenarios and you can get to them quickly with the great index.Malcolm Holt to the RESCUE.